How to Care for Your Bespoke Suit: Cleaning, Storage and Maintenance
Why Suit Care Matters More Than You Think
A bespoke suit is a long-term investment. With the right care, a well-made wool suit can last 10 to 20 years without losing its shape or appearance. Without it, even the finest cloth deteriorates quickly. The good news is that proper suit care is straightforward â it mainly requires forming a few consistent habits.
After Every Wear: The Basics
Hang It Immediately
Never leave your suit crumpled on a chair or bundled in a bag. The moment you take it off, hang it on a wide, shaped wooden hanger. The hanger should be wide enough to support the full shoulder span â narrow wire hangers distort the shoulder structure over time and undo the tailoring work permanently.
Let It Rest
Wool fibres are elastic â they compress under body heat and moisture during the day and naturally spring back when given time to rest. Allow at least 24 hours between wears. If you're wearing suits five days a week, rotate a minimum of three suits to ensure each gets adequate recovery time.
Brush It Down
Use a soft natural-bristle clothes brush to brush the jacket and trousers after every wear. Brush in downward strokes following the direction of the cloth. This removes surface dust and lint, lifts the fibres, and prevents dirt from working its way into the weave where it can cause premature wear.
Air It Out
Before hanging in a wardrobe, let the suit air in a ventilated room for 20â30 minutes. This allows any moisture absorbed during the day to evaporate before the suit is stored in a closed space.
Dealing with Creases
Light creasing is normal and will fall out naturally as the suit rests and the fibres recover. For more stubborn creases, the best approach is steaming â not ironing.
Steaming (Recommended)
A handheld garment steamer is the safest and most effective tool for bespoke suiting. Hold the steamer head a few centimetres from the cloth â never directly on it â and work in short passes. The steam relaxes the fibres without compressing them, preserving the cloth's texture and any structured padding in the jacket.
Ironing (Use Sparingly)
If you must iron, always use a pressing cloth between the iron and the suit fabric. Use a low to medium heat setting and never iron directly on wool â this causes shine and flattens the natural texture of the cloth. Avoid ironing the chest, lapels, and structured areas of the jacket; steam these instead.
Trousers can be carefully pressed on the inside seam to maintain a clean crease, but again, use a damp pressing cloth.
Cleaning Your Suit
How Often to Dry Clean
This is where most people over-clean. Dry cleaning uses harsh solvents that gradually break down wool fibres and strip the natural oils that give fine cloth its lustre. Dry clean your suit no more than once or twice per year, or only when there is a visible stain that cannot be treated at home.
Spot Treatment at Home
For minor spills, act quickly. Blot (never rub) the affected area with a clean white cloth to absorb as much of the liquid as possible. Then allow to air dry naturally. For food stains, let the residue dry completely before gently brushing away with a clothes brush. Most minor marks respond well to this approach without the need for dry cleaning.
Choosing a Dry Cleaner
When dry cleaning is necessary, use a specialist dry cleaner experienced with fine tailoring â not a standard high-street service. Ask specifically whether they press suits by hand or machine. Hand pressing is correct; machine pressing can distort the canvas construction and structured chest of a bespoke jacket.
Storage
Daily Storage
Hang in a well-ventilated wardrobe with enough space that suits are not compressed against each other. Crowded wardrobes trap moisture and create permanent creases. Give each suit at least a few centimetres of clear space on either side.
Long-Term Storage
If storing a suit for more than a few weeks â for example, a summer suit over winter â follow these steps:
- Clean the suit before storage. Moths are attracted to oils, perspiration, and food residue, not to clean cloth.
- Use a breathable cloth garment bag, not a plastic one. Plastic traps moisture and can cause mildew.
- Add cedar blocks or lavender sachets inside the bag as a natural moth deterrent. Replace them every 3â6 months as the scent fades.
- Store in a cool, dry, dark place. Avoid loft spaces or rooms with high humidity fluctuations.
Moth Prevention
Moth damage is irreversible and can ruin even the finest cloth. The larvae feed on natural fibres â wool, cashmere, silk â and can cause significant damage before it becomes visible. Regular brushing, airing, and clean storage are the most effective preventive measures. Check stored suits every couple of months and shake them out briefly.
Trouser Care
Trousers wear out faster than jackets because of the friction at the seat and knees. Rotating suits extends trouser life significantly. Store trousers by hanging them from the waistband using a trouser hanger with a bar clamp, or fold them neatly over the crossbar of the jacket hanger. Folding them in half lengthways and hanging them over the bar works well for maintaining the trouser crease.
A Simple Weekly Routine
| Action | Frequency |
|---|---|
| Brush down after wearing | Every wear |
| Air before hanging | Every wear |
| Rest between wears | At least 24 hours |
| Steam out light creases | As needed |
| Check for spots or marks | After each wear |
| Dry clean | Once or twice per year maximum |
| Check for moths (stored suits) | Every 6â8 weeks |
Ready to Invest in a Suit Worth Caring For?
A suit that fits perfectly and is made from premium cloth is worth protecting. Visit our bespoke suits page to explore NAAMS' range of hand-crafted, made-to-measure suits â built to last a decade or more with the right care.