How to Choose Your Bespoke Suit Fabric: Super 110 vs 120 vs 130 Explained
When you order a bespoke suit, one of the first decisions you'll face is fabric weight and quality. If you've been quoted options like "Super 110", "Super 120", or "Super 130", you might be wondering: what do these numbers actually mean â and which one should you choose?
What Does "Super" Mean in Fabric?
The "Super" rating refers to the fineness of the wool fibres used in the fabric â specifically the average fibre diameter, measured in microns. The higher the number, the finer the fibres, and the smoother and softer the resulting cloth.
Here's the key relationship:
- Lower number (e.g. Super 100â110) = thicker fibres, more robust, more resilient, easier to care for
- Higher number (e.g. Super 150+) = ultra-fine fibres, extraordinarily soft, but more delicate and prone to pilling
The "Super" system is defined by the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO). A Super 100 fabric has fibres averaging around 18.5 microns in diameter; each step of 10 roughly corresponds to a reduction of about 0.5 microns.
Super 110: The Everyday Workhorse
Super 110 is the sweet spot for business suits and everyday wear. The fibres are fine enough to produce a fabric that drapes beautifully and feels smooth against the skin, while being robust enough to handle regular use â commuting, long days at the office, travel.
Best for: business suits, suits you'll wear at least twice a week, suits that need to look sharp after years of use.
Typical qualities: excellent drape, good crease recovery, hard-wearing, holds a pressed edge well.
Super 120: The Versatile Middle Ground
Super 120 is arguably the most popular choice for bespoke suits. The fibres are noticeably finer than Super 110, giving the fabric a subtle sheen and a silkier hand-feel, while still being practical enough for regular wear.
If you want a suit that looks luxurious but you don't want to treat it like fine china, Super 120 hits the right balance. This is the grade that many established bespoke houses recommend as a default.
Best for: weddings, business meetings, client-facing roles, suits worn 1â3 times per week.
Typical qualities: beautiful drape, subtle lustre, comfortable in mild to cool temperatures, moderate durability.
Super 130: The Step Into Luxury
Super 130 cloth is where everyday practicality starts to give way to pure indulgence. The fibres are exceptionally fine â you'll feel the difference immediately when you run the fabric through your fingers. A Super 130 suit has an unmistakable elegance and a fluidity that lower grades can't quite match.
That said, Super 130 fabrics do require more care. They can be more susceptible to pilling with heavy use, and they're less forgiving of rough treatment. Consider them for suits you'll wear to important occasions rather than daily commutes.
Best for: special occasions, evening wear, suits worn once or twice a week at most, statement pieces.
Typical qualities: exceptional softness, beautiful drape, subtle sheen, requires careful handling.
Super 110 vs 120 vs 130: Quick Comparison
| Rating | Durability | Softness | Best Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Super 110 | Excellent | Good | Daily business wear |
| Super 120 | Good | Very good | Weddings, business, regular wear |
| Super 130 | Moderate | Excellent | Special occasions, luxury wear |
What About Super 150 and Above?
Fabrics beyond Super 130 do exist â right up to Super 250 from mills like Loro Piana â but they are more novelty than necessity for most wearers. At those grades, the fibres are so fine that the fabric can feel almost paper-like, and durability drops sharply. They're better suited as collector's pieces than working suits.
Our Recommendation at NAAMS
For most customers, we suggest starting with Super 120 â particularly for a first bespoke suit. It strikes the perfect balance between luxury and practicality. If you have a specific occasion in mind (a wedding, a gala), Super 130 is worth considering. And if you're ordering a suit you intend to wear every working day for years, Super 110 will serve you exceptionally well.
At NAAMS, our bespoke suits are available in over 250 premium wool fabrics spanning Super 110 to Super 150 from world-renowned mills including Holland & Sherry, Scabal, and Dormeuil.